Showing posts with label textiles. Show all posts
Showing posts with label textiles. Show all posts

2013-03-20

Bling-bling continued...

So much has happened since my last post that I'm not even going to try to list it all up...

BUT...there are some things that I'd like to show you ;-)

First of all, I spend a lot of time at home about a year ago (called being ill) and got into embroidery. Something that never really interested me before, at least not doing it myself.

But I needed something to relax my brain, and brick stitch embroidery is perfect for that. Hours and hours of doing nothing more complicated than counting to 6 ;-)

After doing a little testpiece with yarn I had in stash, I ordered some really nice silkyarn from Devere Yarns and started designing a pattern while waiting for the yarn to arrive. I didn't want to use one of the patterns that you can already see in a lot of versions on the internet, so I designed my own pattern from bits and pieces I had seen on an embroidered linnen (table?) cloth from Lübecks Marienkirche from the second half of the 14th century.

Just when I had finished drawing my pattern, the yarn arrived :-) I started on the embroidery and within a few weeks was done with it. Meanwhile I had found some nice little details I wanted to add while turning the embroidery into a small relic pouch: The seams are covered with freshwater pearls stiched on to looped silk braids just like on a small embroidered pouch once belonging to Hermann von Goch. And because I liked the little bells on Hermann's pouch so much, I had to add bells to my pouch, too ;-)


I gave the pouch to my husband (yes, I got married some time ago...) as a christmas present  and instantly started on a second one, this time to go with my new 1400 dress. But that's another story..



2011-08-08

Holy blingbling

Some of the most fascinating medieval textiles survived time because they were kept in church treasuries as relic pouches, church vestments ect.  
You see them in museums, admire the gorgeous craftsmanship - but why bother to recreate them, normaly they are of no use at a living history event...

Lid of a communion wafer box from Bayrisches Nationalmuseum

Really? Piety was an important part of everyday live throughout the middle ages, so we thought about explainig a bit of that to the public at museum events for a change. And besides being a very interesting aspect of live (ecspecially if you grew up in a family of agnostics like me...), it is a wonderful reason to recreate rather unusual stuff :-)
We already had the little Totentanz I made last year, some pilgrim badges, a rosary - kind of normal stuff... So why not go for something fancy, something the medieval pilgrim would have seen at a "Heiltumsweisung" (presentation of holy artefacts to the public, sometimes with a procesion): a relic. Or two, or maybe even three...
Andi and I began to research on interesting relics covered in textiles (yes, there are those incorporated in big vessels made of precious metals - I'll go for them after I won the lottery...). I started to play around with bits of silk fabric, silk and gold thread, small gold bezans, glass beads, pearls, pen and paper. Andi took care of what was going to be inside the textile covering: skulls and bones. And after ten months of research and handiwork, we finally had this: 


Display of our relic replicas at Marienstiftskirche Lich

The first thing I finished was a box for communion wafers - these were often used later on to house relics.

A round splint box of apr. 10cm diameter, covered and lined with fine linen fabric. On the outside the linen is covered by a 13th century silk fabric (replica). A fingerloop braid made from silk and goldthread covers the brim of the lid and forms a closure over a rock crystal bead. Small blue and white glass beads are sewn to the braid and over the area where the silk is fixed to the linen at the lower part of the boxes body.

Examples of this type of Pyxis ("box") are now in Basel (Historisches Museum), Munich (Bayrisches Nationalmuseum) and Regensburg (Historisches Museum).


Pyxis with silk covering

And then the "Bone-box" arrived - a parcel full of ribs, finger bones and skulls. No real human bones of course, but high class anatomical 100% scale models, really hard to tell from the real thing...

A lot of the relic busts you can see in churches and museums today have been altered (some of them even more than once) since the middle ages, so we looked for the rather rare examples without baroque additions. Not very successful until Isis from Medieval Silkwork visited us and brought a book with her called "Stof Uit de Kist. de Middeleeuwse Textielschat Uit de Abdij Van St.-Truiden " (thanks Isis!). And in there was what we were looking for: A relic bust covered in silk showing the cranium of a saints skull. Thanks to the photos and detailed description it was possible to build a bust just like the original.

Andi altered the colour of the part of the skull that would be visible so that it looked old and like it was touched rather often. Then he build an understructure out of wood to put the cranium onto. I made a linen cover for it stuffed with leftover bits of wool fabric and attached the visible silk covering to it. Just like the original, the bust is only meant to be seen from this side - the other side is not even covered at all, you can still see the wooden structure.


relic bust replica covered in 11th century silk

Besides the relic bust they also have skulls wrapped in silk fabrics in Sint-Truiden abby, so we also replicated those. The originals supposedly belonged to some of the 11.000 virginal handmaidens of St. Ursula... Relics of the 11.000 maidens can be found all over europe today - there literally was a "maiden export trade" in Cologne in the middle ages:  Outside the city gates a burial ground was found in the 12th century (then called ager Ursulanus) containing the remains of the maidens. Today there is a widespread belief that it was just one of the many roman or early medieval grave fields in and around Cologne ;-)       

Anyway, medieval people believed in the 11.000 handmaidens, so we replicated two of them: To the left a skull wrapped in red silk tafetta with a headband and bands crossing at the top of the head made from gold brocaded "Kölner Borte" (bands from Cologne woven with gold thread). I was lucky enough to buy one meter of it from a church vestment workshop - they sold some leftovers from around 1920 and older...

To the right a skull covered in silk gauze with a tabletwoven silk headband I made with little flower shaped gold bezans. The warp of the headband appears to be striped because the tablets alternated s and z in groups...


skulls of less important saint were often just sewn into fabric
instead of incorporating them into a precious metal vessel 

Looking for other types of relics we came across some put inside a glass or crystal vessel, so we had to build one of those. Here is a bone fragment put inside a 13th century glass replica sealed with wax. The cedula (piece of parchment or paper stating from which Saint the relic is) inside the glass is a copy of a paper cedula from Bad Gandersheim from the 14th century - something rather common in a lot of church treasuries: Older relics were occasionaly repacked and labled with a new cedula when their vessel was to worn or considered not grand enough anymore...  


relic in a glass vessel

And finally we got into mass production ;-)
Bad Gandersheim has a vast number of relics from different Saints wrapped or sewn into little pieces of costly fabric, some labled with a cedula. So we used a lot of the silk fabric cut-offs I had kept from different projects over the last years. Most of the relic packs are really small, so a little wood turned pyxis can house a lot of them... There is one in Quedlinburg Domschatz where the lid is stuck nowadays - maybe its content looks like this: 


Pyxis filled with relic bundles
First time Andi took all the relics with him was to a rather small, but very nice event in Lichs gothic Marienstiftskirche - the perfect room for his presentation :-)

As it was so much fun to research and recreate all this, we will keep up "the relic industry", so look out for updates...

2011-05-07

Baaaaaaaaah!

Yes, I'm still there - not much in the workshop at the moment, though :-/
There are a lot of good reasons for that: Getting started for the events I'm going to attend this year (TEMPUS at Dorstadt being one of them), work, private things and last but really not least 12 cute little reasons with 4 feet and fluffy wool :o)


Paula, her brother and their proud mum, Josephine


Paula 10 days later

When I'm not at work or with my sheep, I'm working on a new 14th century dress (12 gore dress after Herjolfsnes) and on a research projekt about relics, relic bags and boxes and things related. I'll write more about that soon and show you some of the stuff I made...

In the meantime here is something for all you textile lovers that the people from The Archeology of York have made available for download:
Textile Production at 16–22 Coppergate by Penelope Walton Rogers
Enjoy!

2010-09-15

Frilled headware - details

As promised, here are some more detailed photos of the border of my "Kruseler".
You can see the plain weave in tabby with a double thread weft in the left part of the border and the protruding weft loops in the right part.

I simply attached it to the selvedge of a rectangular linnen veil :-)

On the next photo you can see the border going round the corner - from the original paintings of Conrad von Soest I got the impression the women are wearing headscarfs with 4 sides of frill...

The advantage is that I can wear the veil in at least two different ways now: I can either fold it twice and pin it to my braids or fillet as shown here or I can wear it unfolded, draped around head and neck like in the last photo.   












2010-08-30

Frilled headwear...

...can easily become an obsession, so be carefull ;-)
Isis from Medieval Silkwork can tell you a lot more about it - here is just a quick glimps on my new frilled veil.

As the process of weaving a veil with a frilled border is really slow and I don't have much time to weave at the moment, I got a bit impatient. I just had to make something I could wear now, not next year...

It's a simple rectangel of handwoven linnen cloth bordered with a narrow linnen band. The band has two different edges: the straight edge is sewn to the cloth, the other edge is curved and forms the frill. 

There are some pictures of this type of frill painted by Conrad von Soest (e.g. on the altar of the Stadtkirche in Bad Wildungen, painted around 1403).


You can even see the different colour of the frilled border on the lower edge on Marys veil:

On another painting you see a tiny line above the frill - so I think this could be some kind of band sewn to the cloth... 

I got lucky and found a border of handwoven linnen with one straight and one curved edge on a piece of vintage linnen from the 19th century that I could use for my veil :-)

The curves are formed by small loops of the weft protruding from the warp.
Technically not very difficult and quite similar to the woven garter with a dagged edge from 14th century London...



Unfortunately I don't have a good photo of me wearing the veil in this style at the moment, just one taken from the side while I was explaining something to a bunch of visitors... 




2010-07-27

Tame lions

Back from our holiday - visiting museums, what else ;-) - I started sorting through more than 600 photos...
Here is something from the Domschatzmuseum in Regensburg for all who are interested in brocaded tabletweaving:

So called "Wolfgangskasel" (chasuble of St. Wolfgang), dating around 1050.
Patterned silk fabric with embroidery and brocaded tabletwoven bands, "reconstructed" in the 15th century when they used some new silk fabric to fill all the holes in the original garment. Today only little of both fabrics is left, most of the darkgrey fabric is from the latest restoration...

Taking pictures without flashlight was allowed, so thanks to the museum for that!!!

The tabletwoven borders are really georgious, they have a repeating design of birds and lions between flowershaped things and little spacing patterns. The warps is red and almost-black silk, woven in 3:1 broken twill. The dark threads form part of the pattern together with the red that are also the binding threads for the brocading.

The central pattern is bordered by a small row of patterns on each side - they are rather worn, so in most parts of the bands you can not really see them any more.

Here you can also see part of the embroidery done in gold and silk and the linen background.


Luckily for us today the lowest part of the chasuble is quite worn over all, so the gold has almost completely rubbed off from the tablet weaving and you can see whats under the brocading :-)


Here you can clearly see the dark warp threads forming the pattern on a red background.
If you think you now these cute little lions from somewhere - I think they are in Collingwoods book in the chapter about 3:1 broken twill. I'm not really sure for I don't have my book here at the moment.
Nancy Spies mentions this garment and its borders in "Ecclesiastical pomp..."  on page118, 120 and 121. In her list of surviving brocaded bands it's called "Band on the chasuble attributed to St. Wolfgang, bishop of Regensburg 11th/13th century"
Unfortunately she states that the original is in Vienna, so don't be confused if you don't find it imidiately looking for a band from Regensburg as I did...
A big "Thank you!" to aislingde for pointing me in the right direction!!!

2010-06-07

Hood, jerkin & hose


Back from Quakenbrück I want to show you the 1480 clothes I already mentioned. They are not totaly finished, but wearable: Some details like 3 more buttons at the front of the jerkin and one button on each sleeve are still missing, the laces for the hose are "under construction" and the hood has no lining. So for now just a quick overall look, pictures of the clothes in detail will follow.

Looking at the pictures I'm again amazed by the vivid colours you can get out of natural dyestuff. The orange was really blazing in the sun and the blue is very lively. I think this is just the right combination. A big "Thank you!" to David from Rubia Pflanzenfärberei for this great work!!

2010-05-31

Sometimes its hard to be a woman...

No, I'm not suddenly into country music ;-)
It's just that I find myself in the situation many a medieval wife with her own small business to attend to may have known: The husband needs something new to wear and suddenly 24 hours in a day are not enough to take care of all the chores, so some things have to wait. Unfortunately that means my book projects ...

Ok, I persuaded Andi to join me in late medieval living history, so naturally I won't leave him alone with all the sewing. And I really like making historical clothes :o)
Last year he joined the event in Soest in a mixture of clothes he had borrowed and some he had made himself. Now it's time for new clothes!

As he is going to portrait a rope maker and beekeeper around the year 1480, the set of working clothes is rather simple and somehow oldfashioned. It consists of shirt and braies, single leg hose fastened to a doublet without sleeves, a buttoned coat / jerkin and a hood.
Hose and hood are made from a 2/2 twill, dyed with madder to a reddish orange, the coat from a slightly finer woadblue 2/2 twill. Shirt, braies and doublet are made from handwoven tabby linen (and also the linig of the coat).

The main source is an altar from Kefermarkt in Austria with a scene ot the "Annunciation to the shepherds" which has a lot of great details. The coat is made after the one on the left, buttoned to the waist with pairs of cloth buttons.

The single leg hose was rather outfashioned in the 1480, but still in use with lower class people. There is a painting showing St. Leonhard and a captive from Bad Aussee where you can clearly see the single leg hose fastened to a doublet.


If you think it's joined hose - have a look at the shirt being pulled over the hose at the front and tucked into the hose at the back - that only works with single leg hose I think.

At the moment I'm doing the last hems, Andi has finished the hood yesterday. So I hope I can show you some pictures after the weekend :-)

Speaking of the weekend: It's going to be fun, we are attending an event in Quakenbrück with a lot of nice people from the Vruntlike Tohopesate and I'll work as a bookbinder the whole time. Finally back to books :o)